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A
carousel of carnivals
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| Discover
the ancient of heart of Sardinia by taking part
in its carnival celebrations |
 If
you've only ever seen Sardinia
in postcards or glossy reviews of its chic Costa
Smeralda resorts then taste some of real thing
during the island's Carnival
celebrations this year. Sardinians refer to the
mainland as the continente, giving an idea
of the sense of detachment they feel from the rest
of Italy. The island is seeped in age-old beliefs
and traditions which burst to life during the Carnival
- from Carnem levare, or the absence of meat
during the Lenten period of fast and meditation.
Carnival is a throwback to the ancient festival
of Saturnalia, a time of unmatched revelry
when all rules were overturned and masters exchanged
roles with their slaves. As the with Latin motto
goes: "semel in anno licet insanire" - "once
a year we can all go mad".
There is a wide variety of carnival celebrations
dotted throughout Sardinia. Two of the most
spectacular must surely be the celebrations in Mamoiada
and Oristano.
First we head to the province of Nuoro
for Mamoiada's Carnival. The main event of
the Carnival is the parade of Juvanne Martis
Sero - an allegory of carnival dying while mourned
by the onlooking crowds - which takes place on Shrove
Tuesday (February 12th). Other highlights
include numerous parties, dances and the parades
of the breathtaking Mamutthones
and Issohadores - part man, part beast and a
celebration of when animals ruled the earth. If
you are in Mamoiada pay a visit to the Mediterranean
Mask Museum which was opened on January 12th
last and traces the history of all the local carnivals
throughout the ages.
If Mamoiada's Carnival is a celebration of Sardinia's
rural tradition then the Sartiglia
in Oristano evokes another equally important
ingredient in the island's history. The Sartiglia
- like the Quintana in Foligno and the Giostra
del Saracino in Arezzo - pays homage to Italy's
heritage on horseback. Here the Mamutthones are
replaced by elegantly dressed componidori,
jockeys who compete against other in a spectacular
jousting tournament.
Sardinia - the land for all seasons.
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| by
FABIO
BONVICINI |
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Feb.
1st, 2002
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THE SURVIVOR'S 
