Discovering
Trastevere, with its hidden mosaics, miniature bells
and a little-known museum of Roman poetsDiscovering
Trastevere, with its hidden mosaics, miniature bells
and a little-known museum of Roman poets
Our
trip today takes us right into the heart of Rome,
as we discover the hidden delights of Trastevere,
one of the city's oldest and best-loved areas. The
tour is suitable for even the shortest stay in Rome,
so make the most of the Easter holidays and take
an unforgettable walk through the winding
alleys of Trastevere where you will
stumble on some of the capital's most beautiful
churches.
Poets' place
Our tour starts off in Piazza Gioacchino Belli.
In the centre of the square the statue of Belli,
a well-known Roman poet, seems to welcome us into
his area. Indeed poetry lovers will enjoy a visit
to the one of the square's little-known treasures
- the Roman Poet's Museum.
Still on the square we stop to admire the Anguillara
Tower, an ancient tower built by one of the
most important noble families in Rome in the 13th
century and commonly known as Dante's house. The
first church on our route is the Basilica
of Santa Cecilia, one of the oldest
and most beautiful churches in Trastevere. Don't
miss the impressive 9th century mosaic
in the apse, the 12th century tabernacle
and Stefano Maderno's sublime statue of Saint Cecilia.
Leaving the church we head for Piazza dei Mercanti,
once a focal point for Rome's Jewish population
and now one of the most colourful squares in the
area.
Saintly shelter Our
chosen route now takes us along Via Anicia
where we will visit the beautiful church of S.
Francesco a Ripa. Built in the 13th
century the church was home to Saint Francis
of Assisi during his trips to the Holy City.
We then continue to the nearby church of San
Benedetto in Piscinula, known by locals as "San
Benedettino" (the little church of Saint
Benedict) because of its diminutive nature. The
church, which still houses the cell where the Saint
lived, was built on the ruins of the Domus Aniciorum,
the home of the Anicii family, the ancient Roman
family which Saint Benedict supposedly belonged
to and which gave its name to the street.
The church has a magnificent Romanesque bell tower
which was built in the 12th century.
However, the real jewel is the bronze bell hanging
inside the tower which was completed in 1069
making it the oldest bell in Rome, and, at a
mere 45 cm in diametre, is also the smallest!
Inside, the church has an irregular form and it
boasts a fine collection of works from the Mediaeval
period including an impressive cosmatesque mosaic
floor. Worthy of note are the pillars which date
back to Roman times and what remains of the original
12th century frescoes - the Universal
Judgement on the back wall and Scenes from
the Old Testament on the right-hand wall.
Those wishing to visit the church should note that
it is only open on Sunday morning for 9 am mass.
Magnificent mosaics
It's time to leave San Benedettino behind
and cross Viale Trastevere towards the magnificent
basilica of Santa
Maria in Trastevere . Santa Maria
in Trastevere is one of the most beautiful basilicas
that you'll come across in the capital and is believed
to be the oldest place of worship dedicated to Our
Lady in Rome. Legend goes that it was built on the
site of an oil font where Our Lord's birth was first
predicted in 38 BC Now, it's safe to say, that it
is one of the finest churches in Rome with its 12th
century Romanesque bell tower and façade
with a mosaic of the Virgin and Child. The church
boasts some magnificent mosaics including
one in the apse from the 12th century
of the Triumphant Madonna and others, attributed
to Pietro Cavallini, which depict episodes
from the life of Our Lady.
Don't forget to ask to see the church's collection
of Byzantine art, dating from the 1 D.C., which
is stored in the sacristy
www.caffelletto.it
All you need to know as a tourist to Trastevere,
bed & breakfast accommodation and other budget
options. Some photos are included. www.italycyberguide.com
A guide to the church of San Francesco a Ripa with
photos and historical information. www.siba.f
This Finnish site (don't worry - it's written in
English) has a catalogue of churches and includes
ample visual material. For real enthusiasts..