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The
sights, sounds and smells of Palermo
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Palermo
is a cultural crossroads between east and west,
north and south. Poignant, pungent and powerful,
Palermo is a city of contrasts, vivid colours, strong
smells and deep sounds. Let's visit the Kalsa and
Vucciria market.
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To
go into the Kalsa (from the Arab khalisa
meaning 'pure'), the erstwhile citadel built by
the Saracens before 1000 AD, is to take a step back
in time. The area is teeming with important monuments
and buildings, wonderful churches and noble homes,
many of which still bear the signs of the allied
bombings during the second world war.
 The
Kalsa
Once in the Kalsa you should visit Palazzo
Abatellis in Via Alloro 4, which houses
the Regional Art Gallery. There is a considerable
collection of paintings on display (mostly from
the Sicilian School and dating from the XIIth to
XVIIIth centuries) the highlight of which is undoubtedly
"Death's
triumph", the fresco which reputedly inspired
Picasso to paint Guernica. Don't miss Annunziata
by Antonello da Messina before you go on
your way.
Just down the road from the gallery, between Via
Lungarini and Via Merlo, is Palazzo Mirto,
a town house from the 1600s which is now a museum,
complete with original furnishing and decorations
including an antique Chinese leather suite, tapestries,
a painting by Velasquez and beautiful wooden ceilings.
Walking on you'll soon reach Piazza
Marina with its ornate garden and giant "Ficus
magnolide". Botanists will want to visit the Botanical
Gardens in Via Lincoln, near the Foro Italica -
by the sea, where they can view even more of these
magnificent trees. The garden is open all day (except
Sunday) and makes for a pleasant stroll in the shade.
But staying in Piazza Marina, we'll pay a visit
to Palazzo
Chiaromonte, now part of the University but
once the seat of the terrible Inquisition Tribunal
in 1601. For decades executions were carried out
in the adjoining gardens. At this stage we're due
a rest and where better than in one of the square-front
restaurants. We recommend "Il
crudo e il cotto": for its wonderful starters
and pasta courses with aubergine, basil, mint, fennel
and fish or "La
cambusa", which is slightly more expensive
but offers a wider choice of dishes.
Vucciria market
Was that good? Now it's time to head on towards
Palermo's colourful market, La
Vucciria. If you leave Piazza Marina with the
sea behind you you'll reach Corso Vittorio Emanuele,
just before Via Maqueda on the right you should
see (hear and smell) the market once immortalised
by the painter Renato Guttuso. Here the colours,
flavours and voices of Palermo come together in
a sensual medley second to none. Stall-holders will
try to entice you to buy their wares - from freshly
caught fish to luscious vegetables and pungent spices.
Food stalls sell an array of sandwiches filled with
just about anything you can fry: panelle,
chickpea fritters, aubergines, octopus - the list
is endless. If you prefer to sit while you're eating
try the "Trattoria Shanghai", which, despite its
Chinese name, serves traditional Sicilian food.
As you sit supping overlooking the market you'll
be forgiven for thinking you're in the middle of
Shanghai, or Casablanca or...
From "Cane di terracotta" by Andrea Camilleri
"They went to Vucciria. Livia was dazed and dismayed
by all the voices, the invitations, the cries of
the hawkers, the talking, the contradictions, the
sudden brawls all surrounded by colours so vivid
they seemed artificial, as if they had just been
painted. The smell of fresh fish mingled with mandarin,
sweetbreads of lamb, boiled then sprinkled with
cheese, traditionally cooked spleen, fried vegetables,
coming together in an inimitable, almost magical,
blend."
Our journey through Palermo continues with
Palermo - cultural crossroads
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VENTRIX |
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August
2001
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THE SURVIVOR'S 
