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The
bitter taste of counterfeit food
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Parmesan
from Wisconsin? Parma ham from Canada? We take a look
at how Italian food is imitated all over the world
leaving a bitter after-taste for gastronomes and connoisseurs
alike.
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 What
international system can guarantee against the misuse
or unlawful appropriation of the Geographical Indications
set out by the European Union? None, it would appear
if Coldiretti's (Italy's foremost farmer's
association) complaints at the recent WTO summit in
Doha are anything to go by.
The list of quality Italian food and wine which
has been ambushed by international gastropirates
increases daily. The Internet too has its culprits.
On antigocheese.com,
for example, you can happily purchase "Parmesan",
"Pecorino Romano" and Asiago" - all made in Wisconsin.
If you prefer Mascarpone, Bel Gioioso, Crotonese and
black-crust Parmesan - since when has parmesan got
a black crust, you may well ask - then head for riccardosmarket.com.
And these are but two examples.
According to Coldiretti Parmesan cheese
is the most pirated Italy product throughout the world.
Canada peddles more 'false foods' than any
other country selling everything from Grana Padana
to Stracchino cheeses, Parma ham to Genoese, Calabrese
and Milan sausages. The US, on the other hand,
is fond of wine, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and tomato
sauces. Go to Chefshop.com
for San Marzano plum tomatoes whose seeds - as the
site proudly declares - "have been transported to
sunny California giving a sweet, meaty and flavorful
result."
There are currently 117 listed Italian products
out of an EC total of 577. They break down
into 30 cheeses, 30 fruit, vegetable and cereal products,
25 olive oils, 25 meat-based products, 1 bread, 2
balsamic vinegars, 2 fresh meats and 2 types of table
olives for a total 5,500 billion lire in agricultural
terms, 14,000 billion to the end user and some 300,000
jobs.
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| by
MARCELLO
PARMEGGIANI |
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Jan.
8th, 2002
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THE SURVIVOR'S 
