Dramatic,
exhilarating, spectacular and riotous. Seeing is
believing at Siena's Palio - the most famous bareback
horserace in the world - but don't look away, or
it could all be over...
The
city of Siena awakes with a feverish mixture of
excitement and dread on the mornings of July
2nd and August 16th.
As thousands of curious tourists pour into the city
the Sienese prepare to relive yet another chapter
of their glorious past in one of the world's most
spectacular and rambunctious horseraces - the
Palio. On the surface the Palio is but a 75-second race
around Siena's main square, during which 10 of the
city's 17 contrade, or districts, compete
for the titular piece of cloth. However, if
you take a look at the rituals and traditions that
make up this unique race, you will begin to understand
the magic that surrounds it.
In order to get the real flavour of the Palio go
to Siena for the period before the race. With a
bit of luck you'll catch the traditional Blessing
of the Horses which takes place in churches in each
district on the afternoon of the race (it's a serious
business so no talking or flash photography throughout).
You'll also be able to watch the horses and jockeys
try out the track and be part of the general hustle-bustle
that marks the build-up to the great event.
The wisest will now head for an air-conditioned
bar outside the centre and sit watching the race
live on TV. But most of us are not wise and will
want to experience the Palio first-hand.
Here is our advice: leave the children at home,
arm yourselves with water and a sun hat and prepare
to spend hours, crushed together like sardines in
a tin, under the sweltering Tuscan sun. First into
the square are the comparse, groups of young
men in traditional dress representing each district,
next are the standard-bearers, then the chariot
holding the Palio (a banner), then silence falls
as the horses and jockeys make their way up to the
ropes. As with all races, the winner takes it all
and everyone else, from the second across line down,
is the loser. And to win the Palio, it seems,
the contrade will stop at nothing: secret
pacts, rigged betting, pushing, shoving and whipping.
Fans and jockeys take the rules into their hands
in the 75-second struggle for supremacy which gives
the winning district bragging rights for the year
to come.
Crazy? Maybe. But who are we to judge?
In a second it's all over. The Campo is a-swim
with people regaling the victorious horse and jockey.
Winning flags adorn the houses and streets and.
The party is just beginning. What do you mean you
missed it all? Don't worry, leave the square as
calmly as possible and slip into a quiet backstreet
bar. The local TV stations will be showing replays
of the race all night long. And don't be surprised
if you hear the locals planning tactics for the
next incredible instalment of the Palio.
Here's some useful advice:
- Don't go near the horses either before or after
the race;
- Leave the Sienese well alone in the period around
the race and whatever you do don't try to cheer
up despondent fans;
- If you are asked to move aside or make way for
locals, do as you are told.
Ilpaliodisiena.com
- there's lots of information on the Palio here,
though you'll have to rummage around to find the
various English pages. The
Palio - an evocative
first-person account of the Palio by writer Kyle
M. Phillips. Siena
- a useful guide to the area with a selection of
links and a list of hotels in the area
THE SURVIVOR'S 
Dramatic,
exhilarating, spectacular and riotous. Seeing is
believing at Siena's Palio - the most famous bareback
horserace in the world - but don't look away, or
it could all be over...
The
city of Siena awakes with a feverish mixture of
excitement and dread on the mornings of July
2nd and August 16th.
As thousands of curious tourists pour into the city
the Sienese prepare to relive yet another chapter
of their glorious past in one of the world's most
spectacular and rambunctious horseraces - the
Palio. 