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A
taste of Alba
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 The
Langhe are the undisputed gourmet capital of Italy
and Alba and Bra are the joint (and rival) gourmet
capitals of the Langhe. Join us as we graduate from
the Academy of Taste |
Arch-rivals
Alba and Bra both hold the recipe for gourmet success.
The neighbouring towns, rightly proud of their Epicurean
heritage, are masters at promoting their goods,
either singly or as a joint force. A prime example
of their mutual efforts is the Agenzia
di Pollenzo which opened its doors
last July. The Agenzia is a farm complex
and was built in the mid 1800s by King Carlo Alberto
of Savoy. The initiative, carried out in conjunction
with Slow
food-Arcigola, included the renovation
of the existing farm buildings into a hotel, a wine
bank (housed in cellar that is some 1,700 square
metres in size) and a modern university study centre
- the European Taste Academy. The Agenzia
has been backed by local banks and businesses and,
to a certain degree, is the first example of a public
company in Piedmont.
Once in the area we strongly advise you to sample
some of the splendid local wines,
the wonderful risottos
and hazelnut-based
dishes. But not before dedicating some time to the
area's undisputed king - the
truffle.
Truffle-enthusiasts should plan their visit around
October 5th-28th, the dates
of Alba's annual International
Truffle Fair. We pay tribute
to the truffle with this traditional country recipe,
dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. (As
the dish grew in popularity it became a welcome
antipasto on the tables on the rich.)
Polenta with cheese
and truffles
 Ingredients
600 gr polenta (ground corn meal)
300gr cheese(fontina, toma or gruyére)
beaten eggs
breadcrumbs
olive oil
milk
a thinly sliced truffle of about 30-40 gr.
Make the polenta following the instructions on the
packet, flavouring it with the oil, cheese and milk
and making sure it doesn't go lumpy. Pour onto a
dampened marble board and leave to harden. (The
polenta should be around 2cm thick.) Cut both the
polenta and the cheese into dice. Thread them onto
wooden skewers alternating the cheese and the polenta
and adding a thin slice of truffle between each
piece. Dip in the beaten egg then cover with breadcrumbs
and fry in hot olive oil. Serve piping hot as a
starter (antipasto) or as an accompaniment to stews
or casseroles.
And while we're on the subject of cheese let's take
a look at what Piedmont has to offer. The region
boasts a high number of DOP (Denominazione d’Origine
Protetta) cheeses including the little-known but
well-regarded Castelmagno
cheese. The cheese is made in the remote mountainous
area between Castelmagno, Pradleves and
Monterosso Grana. Cheese production was once
an important part of the local economy but has decreased
over the years as people have moved out of the areas
towards the larger towns and cities, although the
last few years have registered a slight increase
in demand. The best cheeses are made during the
summer months in the high pastures but you can find,
and buy, the cheese all year round. Castelmagno
cheese is best eaten after it has been left to ripen
for a few months.
Taste the cheese in this delicious recipe handed
down to us from the Vaudois.
Cheese soufflé with nuts and honey
Ingredients
150 gr crumbled Castelmagno cheese
40 gr butter
2 spoons of flour
300 ml milk
4 eggs
4 spoons of honey
12 whole walnuts
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 175°C. Make a béchamel
sauce by melting the butter in a saucepan, adding
the flour then gradually pouring in the milk, stirring
all the time in order to keep the mixture smooth.
When the sauce is ready add the crumbled cheese
and stir in. Take from the heat and season. Then
add the egg yolks one at a time and mix them in
carefully. Whip the egg whites until stiff and add
a pinch of salt. Fold the cheese mixture into the
whites and pour into a greased soufflé dish.
Cook in a preheated oven for 30 minutes. Drizzle
the honey on top and dust with the chopped walnuts.
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| by
MARIA LINARDI |
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October
2001
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THE SURVIVOR'S 
