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Pesto
made perfect
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| We
taste one of Italy's most famous - and best-loved
- exports and uncover some royal roots . . . |
 Pesto
may have been perfected by the Genoese but its origins
are somewhat uncertain. Basil, the sauce's main
ingredient, has been used in the area for centuries
and was probably imported from Asia or Northern
Africa by the English. It's name comes from
the Greek word for "king", giving some idea of the
plant's importance in former times.
Basil is grown throughout the Mediterranean, but
the basil that is grown in Liguria - more precisely
in the area between Prà e Pegli -
is quite simply (at least according to pesto enthusiasts)
the best.
Buying basil
Basil is best bought during summer when it's at
its most flavoursome - and cheapest - and you should
bulk buy for the winter. Resist the temptation to
freeze it as it will lose some of its distinctive
flavour. One alternative is to leave it to dry.
Once the stalks have lost their moisture remove
the leaves and layer them in jars with salt. Finish
with a layer of salt and cover with oil. (If you
prefer you can crush the leaves before bottling.)
Cover the jar with a piece of slate (or close with
an air-tight lid) and don't forget to top up with
oil each time you use in order to stop air forming
between the layers. When you've finished your basil
you can use the flavoured oil in salads and dressings.
Pesto sauce
Ingredients (feeds 4):
3 bunches of small-leafed basil
1 clove garlic (or more, according to taste)
1 tablespoon pine nuts
1 tablespoon freshly grated Pecorino cheese
1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (use PDO
oil from Liguria if you can get your hands on
it!)
A pinch of salt
The traditional way of making pesto is with
a mortar and pestle (purists insist on a marble
mortar and a boxwood pestle). Wash the basil and
dry it carefully with a paper towel. Remove the
stalks and start to crush in the mortar along with
the garlic, pine nuts and salt. (The name pesto
comes from the Italian verb pestare which
means 'to pound' - however don't be tempted to pound
the mixture to a senseless green pulp in the bottom
of your mortar preferring to grind the ingredients
along the wall of the mortar.) Once you get a thick
paste gradually grind in the cheese. Finally whisk
in the oil until you have reached your desired consistency.
(If you fear your wrist action isn't up to it or
you intend making a substantial batch of pesto then
you'll be forgiven for taking out your blender -
just don't tell your friends.)
Variation: If you find the flavour of
your pesto too strong then add some warm water when
you are adding it to your pasta.
Pesto with trenette
Pesto is not pesto without trenette (a
long, flat ribbon pasta typical of Liguria) or trofie
(a homemade twisted pasta), but tagliolini
(spaghetti-like noodles) and lasagne are
equally delicious. For a really filling meal or
extra-ravenous appetites add boiled sliced potatoes
and green beans to the sauce.
A word of warning for those of you buying supermarket
pesto. Read the list of ingredients carefully before
buying as parsley is often used along with basil
in supermarket-bought pesto. The price may be lower
but believe us, you can taste the difference.
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| by
ELENA
GUARNERI |
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Feb.
20th, 2002
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THE SURVIVOR'S 
